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Use curved tweezers to stabilize the stencil
2
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Must be curved tweezers
3
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The contact surface of the straight tweezers is too small
4
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For example, if we press this area on the left, the right side will easily lift up
5
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When pressing the right side, the left side is easy to lift up
6
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And because of the small contact area, the stencil is easy to move
7
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So we use the curved legs of the curved tweezers, all pressed onto the stencil
8
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It will be more stable
9
00:00:35,933 --> 00:00:37,200
Flattened the stencil
10
00:00:38,500 --> 00:00:46,333
When tinning with the blade, keep the blade 2-3mm away from the solder balls in the first row on the far left
11
00:00:46,466 --> 00:00:48,900
Push the blade down and flatten it back
12
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In this way, most of the solder on the top has been flattened
13
00:00:54,400 --> 00:00:55,900
Then turn the blade back
14
00:00:56,466 --> 00:00:58,000
Flatten it on the bottom
15
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So the solder has been flattened
16
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If the size is small enough, some chips will be flattened once
17
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Then shovel off the excess solder
18
00:01:10,600 --> 00:01:11,733
After shoveling
19
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Wipe off excess with a dust-free cloth
20
00:01:16,933 --> 00:01:18,900
We use rotary-air hot gun
21
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The temperature is about 230 degrees
22
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Air volume to level 3 or 4
23
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Blow the solder
24
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Sweep blowing on a large area first
25
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Such an area about 5 cm in diameter
26
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Heating the surrounding area
27
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In this way, the stencil is not easily deformed
28
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Blow for about a minute
29
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Stop the nozzle to a corner of the chip to blow the solder
30
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Don't rush to loosen the tweezers after the solder melts
31
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Wait 5-10 seconds for the solder to solidify
32
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Release the tweezers
33
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Bending steel stencil
34
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Pick the chip from the back
35
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Reballing is done