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88.CPU reballing
In the video, we will reball on the back of the chip.
Detail
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After the honeycomb holes are reballed

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Next, we will reball on the back of the chip, which has the most pads

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This location has more than 1000 points

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Very difficult to do it

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We have a dedicated reballing tool

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I'll do it by hand for you to see first

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Later when reball the cover, I'll use the reballing tool to do it for you to see

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Align the stencil first

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Press it with tweezers

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Apply the solder paste from the beginning to the end for one time

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Don't do it over and over again

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After the solder paste is applied, raise the back of the knife handle

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Shovel forward slowly

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When applying, try to apply from the left to the right at a time

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But when shovelling, you can shovel like this repeatedly

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Shovel a few more times to ensure that the excess solder paste that is not close to the position is shoveled out

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After shoveling, you can now find a dust-free cloth to wipe it

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There should be no PCB cleaner on this dust-free cloth

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Not a wet wipe but a dry one

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Hot air gun, 230 degrees

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Heat a large area first to prevent deformation of the stencil

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When a small chip is reballed, the deformation of the stencil is not so obvious

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But once the stencil of a chip like CPU is deformed, it means that the reballing has failed

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Quickly sweep a large area like this

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Let the whole stencil heat up

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For about one minute

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Slowly blow the solder from a corner

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Now the reballing is done

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But don't be in a hurry to loosen the tweezers

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Be sure to wait for the solder to solidify before loosening

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Wait more than 10 seconds

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Then lift up this stencil

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You can take a look at the hole after the stencil is lifted

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Check if there are any remaining solder beads in the holes of the stencil

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If there are residual solder beads in the holes of the stencil, it means that the corresponding pads are not reballed

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It's clean

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Nothing on it

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This means that the pads are all reballed

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